British Virgin Islands: Haircut Day

It’s haircut day. I got my last haircut in Sandy Springs, Georgia (for $7!), but I like to get them out of the country when I can. You see:  I collect haircuts.  Today, I will get my first and probably only haircut in Road Town, Tortola, British Virgin Islands. Across the street from my hotel is the Designs Barber Shop and Snack Bar, 2^nd floor, where I found a young barber named Domingo, an immigrant from Santo Domingo! I seem to meet barbers from the Dominican Republic lots of places. My barber on Broadway in New York City is from the DR, and the my barber in San Francisco is from the DR. Styling hair must be a Dominican specialty. In fact, Domingo represents the industry well. He took his time and seemed intent on going after any hair that rose above the cut line. The cost was $12, which is usually what I expect to pay in the U.S. (That $7 clip was an exception!) Yes, the American dollar is the official currency in the British Virgins.  And, I will have to tell you how silly it seems to go through Her Majesty's passport control to get here. As you travel, you begin to think in contrasts. Here in Road Town, there were barbers galore. I had my choice. Back in Charlotte Amalie, I don’t remember seeing a single shop! I guess it was because all the store fronts were taken by jewelry stores.

If you are going to Road Town, walk the entire length of Main Street. It’s been bypassed by a street along the waterfront, so time has passed it by. I imagine it went into a state of decline decades ago (evidence: still lots of dilapidated buildings), but now it is coming back. Properties, not a chain store among them, are being commercialized and painted with the brightest of Caribbean colors. Plus, there is a good mix of churches, schools, old government buildings, restaurants (Midtown for the locals and Pusser’s for the tourists). Chickens run wild, gardenias bloom, and oversized vehicles fight with pedestrians for room to pass. I even found a modern coffee shop, the Live Well Bakery (at right), with an outdoor patio.  It is the kind of place I would spend every morning if I lived here.