U.S. Virgin Islands: End of the Safari

With no planning and no room reservations, I made it through a trip at the height of the Caribbean tourist season.  There shouldn’t have been any rooms available, but thanks to cancellations resulting from the Polar Vortex over the mainland, I was able to find shelter.

I spent four nights in Charlotte Amalie at the Galleon House, two nights on St. John in Cinnamon Bay campground, and one night on Tortola at the A & J Hotel.  I was pleased with them all and recommend them to you.  The islands I didn’t get to were St. Croix in the U.S. Virgins, and Anagada, in the British Virgins.  Of course, there were dozens of little islands I didn't get to either.  I hadn't planned on Anagada, but I had hoped to see St. Croix.  However, the seaplane service that serves the island charges at least $150 round trip from St. Thomas.  I promised myself St. Croix on a future trip: I would land in San Juan, Puerto Rico, take a sea plane to Vieques (in the so-called Spanish Virgin Islands), add another leg to St. Croix, then hop back to San Juan or maybe head on to Dutch/French St. Martin.  On any trip, always leave something undone; you will need a reason to come back.

The tourist industry seems to generate a good return here in the Virgin Islands, but more of the money needs to circulate to the locals.  I see too much of a dual economy: tourist and native. Another way of saying that is white and black.  I hope the government is pumping up the capacity of the University of the Virgin Islands to turn out ambitious and highly skilled graduates who can take charge of their own island.  Right now, the visitors, foreign firms, and come-heres seem to be in control. Charlotte Amalie has a downtown with a wasted wharfside, a 1671 Danish fort (post office mural to the left) that is a dilapidated cultural asset, barkers on the street who seem to terrorize tourists, night life downtown that is sparse, wifi coverage that is even sparser, and lots of crime after dark (at least, that's what everybody tells me).  On the other hand, history has been used quite nicely to refurbish streets and storefronts in Charlotte Amalie's downtown, the cruise ships keep motoring in, and the St. Thomas police have a reassuring presence everywhere.  As for St. John, I hope it keeps its small-town atmosphere.  May its resident population never exceed 5,000!

With my backpack packed, I headed off to the airport.  I now knew the transit system. For a dollar, I hopped on a safari (below) and rode it to one more place, the old submarine base that has been turned into a cruise ship terminal.  Yes, Charlotte Amalie has two cruise ship terminals.  This one is called Crown Bay.  For good or bad, the terminal is a microworld unto itself, complete with ersatz windmill that anchors yet another shopping precinct dedicated to meeting the needs of cruisers. Another safari took me to the airport's edge.  I would grab a sandwich roadside, then hike the half-mile to the terminal.  On one side of the airport are beaches on yet another bay, and on the other side is the University of the Virgin Islands, a reminder to me that work awaits.